Elegoo Neptune 4 Max Chameleon Setup

Anyone updates? Anyone get this working on the 4 Max yet?

Did anyone get this working on the N4M?

@Bill Hello after not really being on here for a couple months or so. Ended up taking the printer apart and replaced the board with a BTT Kraken board to control the servo motor and the switch without having the need for a Raspberry Pi and an Arduino. The Raspberry Pi did not want to communicate with the ZNP K1 V2.0 board that the Neptune 4 Max has. I could have done multiple prints by now if I did the manual switch and input shaping but I want 3dchameleon-klipper to be integrated to where I can do the pulses with macros. Auto3DKlippy integrated as well. I did successfully get one part of the wipe tower with multiple filaments on the Neptune 4 Max before I swapped out the board but was never able to achieve results again. That is why I made the switch to the Klipperized version by @3dcoded Right now the Neptune 4 Max is printing like a champ with the BTT Kraken board. I am configuring the 3Dchameleon-klipper macros and Orca Slicer now. Will share results as soon as I run a test or two or two thousand. Still need to rerun input shaping and whatnot to get the results I want but from a lot of soldering, modifications, configuring, troubleshooting, debugging, whatever.. I can say I learned at least what not to do. The Neptune 4 Max was a trouble right off the rip but with these modifications so far it's not awful for the size it is. I figure the 3dchameleon-klipper will be working in the next day or two! Take care.

@t7 @robert taggart, where you guys able to get 3d clippy working on your Neptune's?

Don't want to let this thread to die. Any answers?

So far I think the model I pieced together from other people's models is working as far as the structure goes. I don't have the g code or the blade working properly. Made the mistake of buying a 270° servo and not a 180°. It's 35kg and I've been running it at 8.2A. The blade I've been using is an X-Acto blade #11. I didn't know how big or the best way to put the blade recommended in. The g code I've been trying to fine tune is slowly getting better but haven't been able to get a successful print yet. I'll upload my g code and blade holder with blade inside when I get home. Everything is wired properly, at least that's a plus. Any help would be great!

Do we have any updates? Or models on how you mounted the 3d clippy?

Unfortunately, no solution has worked to get the 3D chameleon to work with the elegoo neptune 4 max. I have tried many times to modify and get the clippy to work to no avail.

Problem 1 is that the 3D Chameleon switch can not be mounted in a location that doesn't reduce the printer's build volume. Problem 2 is the 3DClippy dosen't yet have a reliable method to ensure proper tip shaping.

At this time the 3D Chameleon is not compatible with the Elegoo Neptune 4 series.

Just a quick update I am still modifying the Clippy body.. Currently the lever is catching and causing an issue where the blade will not fully retract. More to come

Here are some images of my progress I have uploaded my work thus far to printables

https://www.printables.com/model/945674-3d-clippy-for-elegoo-neptune-4-max

Please share if you are successful! Even if you're not I'm still interested in the progress. Right now I superglued the 3D Clippy, forgot what the design is, to the m10 bowden halter.

Yeah I am doing a bit of design and fabricating too. I am in the middle of fine tuning the y-mount. Once I have a working design will share soon

Hello! I am brand new here. Actually just made an account because I saw this post and I too am trying to get the 3D Chameleon and the 3D Clippy to work with the Neptune 4 Max. I have successfully mounted the 3D Chameleon switch on the Y axis. It took a lot of trial and error but it is mounted there pretty well with the switch triggering at 417mm. I use the provided T nuts but had to do a good bit of the fabrication to the plastic pieces I'm using as the mounts. I plan on maybe drilling a hole so I can thread the wires through going straight down and then out a hole to the main 3D Chameleon PCB. Also pictured is what I used for the PTFE tubes to mount to the extruder.

The best way is to use the 3DClippy to cut the end of the filament off. Otherwise, it's a real trial and error method of tuning it. Some folks have found that a fast retract (after a small purge) is the ideal way to do it. Our typical code makes sure the filament is allowed to cool fully below the glass transition temperature of the particular filament so that it won't swell before it's removed. You also don't want soft (molten) filament to pass between the drive gears before it's allowed to fully solidify.

Bill