Thank you for the files and example, I had to modify it very slightly to fit it to my AD5M Pro due to cable chain connection being in the way. Then I had to make a lid raiser to move the lid about 5 cm up. Found how to wire the servo by switching the 5V and signal wires and connecting to the ICSP. If your servo attempts to cut multiple times like mine did, your servo arm is binding. None of my servo arms worked properly with the default files provided and I had to modify them be removing one side and trimming down the material on the other until the servo could stroke fully and return fully.
Again, thank you for all the work on the files and for the great product.
@Bill You did. I somehow missed your response and apologize for that.
I've come to the decision that this won't work if I continue to use the FF DIY enclosure kit. I can keep the risers and the acrylic doors but not the upper portion and the top lid. Not the end of the world for me but a bit sad considering the amount of filament it took to print the top pieces.
Can you tell me if this is the right way to mount the "Y" to the top of the print head? I modified @Jeffery Strahan model for the 5M Pro to include the vertical piece to ziptie the "Y" connector.
I bought it but hadn't put it in place yet. Thanks for the verification. The funny thing with my 5M, I can't advance filament through the stock firmware to figure out the length needed for the GCode generator. For the gcode, do I need to just manually feed filament to the hotend until it stops, mark it and measure how long?
@Bill So my issue isn't with the 3d chameleon feeder but the 0.4mm nozzle I have. I believe it is got some filament stuck in it. I swapped to a 0.6mm and am printing in a single color without issue. Now I get the fun of figuring out how to get the clogged nozzle working again. It is very weird all the teeth marks on the filament when I back it out but with it feeding properly with the new nozzle, it can't be the 3dchameleon.
If anyone has doubts, I tried a print with and without the 3dchameleon. My first clue was the first layer looked like chicken scratch instead of a nice clean layer. That is when I started looking at the nozzle to troubleshoot and found that feeding filament with and without the 3dchameleon, something was just wrong with how it came out. I would get globs every now and then and it looked like the filament had almost separated as it flowed out.
Putting this in here to help anyone who is struggling like I am. :)
Thank you all for the patience. I greatly appreciate it!
@Jeffery Strahan Did you use the 5M's filament sensor? I was thinking of putting the "Y" connector behind the filament sensor instead of putting that extra weight on the printer head.
It will interfere with the operations of the 3DChameleon unless you use the cracker Klipper firmware for it. The stock firmware is not open to allow macros to be run.
The unofficial firmware doesn't run that well for me. Any GCODE that is larger than 30MB crashes the machine at various points of the print so I've gone back to stock firmware. Did you get my email about the DIY enclosure? I'm still trying to figure out how to get this product running with my machine.
I guess I'm not much of a tinkerer to really understand how the AutoClippy works. I printed the one labeled metal arm which I assumed meant it was for the servo with the metal arm. How does the blade mount? How does the y tube adapter mount as well? If you'd rather discuss this via email, that is fine as well as I'm having issues out of the box and I can't tell if it is just me or the unit itself.
I'm also looking for the Autoclippy addon but having a hard time finding instructions that I can related to with my 5m. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
im working on one now. should be ready sometime soon as i haven't received my hardware yet to test it plus i want/need to make a few changes but its a tight fit so shouldn't flop around and i positioned the motor over the back portion of the extruder so the weight is close to the rods. my main concern at the moment is the extruder wire, im not sure if the motor will interfere with it and i will need to do some adjustments and/or wire management. i also want to make sure a drag chain is still possible to connect somewhere if anyone has the hardware and would like to test it let me know and ill get you the file.
Yep, here's a picture of it attached and working. Only uses 3M VHB tape to hold it in place. The switch will be in the top left back corner and I'll use the end of the filament cutter to engage it.
Thank you for the files and example, I had to modify it very slightly to fit it to my AD5M Pro due to cable chain connection being in the way. Then I had to make a lid raiser to move the lid about 5 cm up. Found how to wire the servo by switching the 5V and signal wires and connecting to the ICSP. If your servo attempts to cut multiple times like mine did, your servo arm is binding. None of my servo arms worked properly with the default files provided and I had to modify them be removing one side and trimming down the material on the other until the servo could stroke fully and return fully.
Again, thank you for all the work on the files and for the great product.
@Bill You did. I somehow missed your response and apologize for that.
I've come to the decision that this won't work if I continue to use the FF DIY enclosure kit. I can keep the risers and the acrylic doors but not the upper portion and the top lid. Not the end of the world for me but a bit sad considering the amount of filament it took to print the top pieces.
Can you tell me if this is the right way to mount the "Y" to the top of the print head? I modified @Jeffery Strahan model for the 5M Pro to include the vertical piece to ziptie the "Y" connector.
@Jeffery Strahan Did you use the 5M's filament sensor? I was thinking of putting the "Y" connector behind the filament sensor instead of putting that extra weight on the printer head.
The generic Auto 3DClippy works just fine on the Adv 5 machines. Are you running into an issue with it?
We demonstrated it at MRRF this year.
Bill
I'm also looking for the Autoclippy addon but having a hard time finding instructions that I can related to with my 5m. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
How does this work with the DIY enclosure and the drag chain? I'm guessing at this point, I won't be able to use the enclosure nor the drag chain.
I don't get the placement of the switch as the mount I found on tinkercad doesn't fit my AD5M in the place pictured above.
im working on one now. should be ready sometime soon as i haven't received my hardware yet to test it plus i want/need to make a few changes but its a tight fit so shouldn't flop around and i positioned the motor over the back portion of the extruder so the weight is close to the rods. my main concern at the moment is the extruder wire, im not sure if the motor will interfere with it and i will need to do some adjustments and/or wire management. i also want to make sure a drag chain is still possible to connect somewhere if anyone has the hardware and would like to test it let me know and ill get you the file.
Does bed leveling interfere with the switch
The base 3DClippy should attach very easily with two sided tape, I'd think. I have an Ad5 at home and I'll test it tonight.
Bill