Hey Folks,
I know a lot of you have been waiting for it, so here's the first batch of upgrades for the Mk4 Pro system. In this first batch, we're setting it up for the future. Two updates are included (plus a lot of under the cover stuff) that will allow you to a) add an OLED display to your 3DChameleon, and b) Add the Auto 3DClippy filament cutter to your printer. Let's start with the firmware. Our Firmware Update thread has been updated to include the new Mk4.0 Firmware. This firmware will be installed exactly as the previous ones, however, there is one additional step you need to take BEFORE you install it... and that is to burn the new bootloader from the latest version of the Arduino IDE to your board before you install the firmware. Once you do that, you'll follow the exact same instructions as previously. If you fail to do this step, you'll find that your unit responds very slowly. If that's the case, you just need to redo it and make sure you burn the new Bootloader firmware FIRST. Ok... so let's talk about installing these to updates. 1) The OLED display. You can use any 4 pin OLED display that supports the 1306 interface. This is an I2C interface and requires two wires for the I2C Bus (SDA and SCL) as well as power and ground. You can find the required components to hook it up here on Amazon:
OLED Display (1x): https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-SSD1306-Self-Luminous-Display-Raspberry/dp/B072Q2X2LL
Jumper Wires (4x): https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78
To connect it, you'll want to use 2 3 pin Molex KK connectors. Here's a picture of the wiring. Blue is the SDA line, Green is the SCL line, Red is the V+ and Black is the Ground. Once connected, powering on the 3DChameleon should display the 3DChameleon text.
The OLED display can be snap fit into the plastic cover provided on Tinkercad, or you can use it as a model to design your own.
2) Auto 3DClippy Filament Cutter. The servo uses standard servo motors and wires, however, the V+ and signal wire on the servo connecter need to be reversed (NOTE: they can be different colors than those shown, so check the servo's documentation for the correct V+ and signal wire.) The servo wire will plug directly into the ICSP header on the 3DChameleon's electronics as shown here, except if you are using a higher power servo... then only the Signal wire needs to be plugged into the center:
And you need to plug them into the ICSP header here:
Here are the Amazon links for the necessary parts (Only the M3x10 screws, super glue and 20kg servo are not included in the 3DChameleon Kit):
Utility Knife (1x): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXTP9M9
20kg Servo 180 degree (1x): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JFSJ32M
M3 x 10mm Allen Head (4x): https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Screws-Bolts-Thread-100pcs
Loc-Tite Super Glue Gel (1x): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1364076-Super-Squeeze-Liquid/dp/B0006HUJCQ
PC4-M10 PTFE Connector (2x): https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG
Note, in order to use the plastic control horn in our 3DClippy design, you'll want use the 4 way plastic control horn and cut off 3 of the arms. This will fit directly onto the servo shaft and allow the blade holder to move in and out of the cutter. Also note, you'll want to power on the 3DChameleon with the servo attached... cycle it by loading/unloading filaments a few times to make sure the servo ends in the correct "blade out" position before you attach the control horn. That way no calibration is needed. Also make sure you use the provided knife blades and glue them into place all the way into the blade holder.
Also, if you want to use a higher power servo (i.e., more than 5V to increase the power), you can optionally use a power splitter off of our power supply and supply power directly to the servo's red/black (V+/Gnd) pins. To do that, you can use these:
Adjustable Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N6WWJS Screw Terminal for 2.1mm jack: https://www.amazon.com/Qaoquda-Connector-Terminal-Headphone-Converter/dp/B07JMY5XXT
1 to 2 2.1mm splitter: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Surveillance-Adapter-Y-Cable-Security/dp/B082Y1PQ6C
Then you can use two jumper wires to connect the 2.1mm jack's screw terminals to the input of the adjustable power supply, and then connect the red/black power leads to the servo to the output of the adjustable power supply. Adjust the power supply to the correct operating voltage of your servo... Warning! Make sure you don't over volt the servo.
One more thing... make sure you're using a 180 degree servo... which will move the cutter through 45 degrees. If you use a 270 degree servo, the commands will move it through 67.5 degrees, but that also reduces the torque available for that move.
Printable files for both of these can be found on Tinkercad. Just search for 3DClippy or 3DChameleon.
The firmware and installation instructions can be found here: https://www.3dchameleon.com/forum/getting-started/mk4-firmware-upgrade-instructions Bill
Do ones that were just purchased come with the new bootloader and firmware already installed?
Building the Auto 3D clippy: but the servo turns the wrong side (using the Digital3DClippy_Universal)
How can I solve this ?
So if we can tell an lcd the cam position whats stopping us from finding a way to feed that info back into klipper and our machines. I don't know what ports could be used on the printer to intake the data, but I'm sure we could find something. I'm about to make an extruder run out sensor for my K1 so that Pin is going to get taken up, but there's bound to be other in the board.
Ready for another round of Pro upgrades! Could really use the extruder motor sensor....
Any suggestion for the separate power supply for the servo? I don’t want to fry it lol
Any timeline for part 2 of the updates? I'm still struggling with getting the first parts going, but also interested if the additional options will make what I'm struggling with easier.
I sat down and gave the firmware update a shot. Everything seemed to have worked the OLED works but I didn't hear the normal pulsing from the motors and noticed the motors are moving just REALLY slow. I remember this part from Bill and started searching for this thread. "Let's start with the firmware. Our Firmware Update thread has been updated to include the new Mk4.0 Firmware. This firmware will be installed exactly as the previous ones, however, there is one additional step you need to take BEFORE you install it... and that is to burn the new bootloader from the latest version of the Arduino IDE to your board before you install the firmware. Once you do that, you'll follow the exact same instructions as previously. If you fail to do this step, you'll find that your unit responds very slowly. If that's the case, you just need to redo it and make sure you burn the new Bootloader firmware FIRST." I am not even sure what the fix is here. I loaded my arduino nano with the ArduinoISP sketch from version arduino ide 1.8.19. Loaded the firmware via command prompt. My assumption is to go get the latest version of arduino ide but other then that I don't know what to do
what is supposed to be used as the target board for the bootloader?
can the servo be operated in either direction? like can the cut direction be set to either clockwise or counter clockwise?
Bill,
Are new orders going out flashed already with the latest firmware?
Does the mk4 continuously pulse when plugged in?
If you have this issue for me it was a faulty/incorrect power supply. It wasn't evident until I had the OLED attached. The screen was flickering, when programming with no power supply attached to the uno screen the display was good. Once I changed the power supply the screen came good. This came about as I am not a fan of power pin adaptors eg US to AU all sorted no longer in continuous pulse and behaves as it should although not fitted yet.
I followed the instructions in the YouTube Video by Chris Riley and it works! I had an unused Arduino Uno that I used rather than a USBTiny (don't have one). I do have a FT232, but not sure that it would work. Anyhow, thrilled to get this far.
Forgetting that I had a .6 nozzle on the printer, I didn't get the best result on the cover. I'll get it switched back to .4 and give it another go after I fix the posts for the OLED. If I get a chance in the next few days, I'll post the remix on TinkerCAD (if someone else hasn't done it first.)
I cut off the posts to check the fit otherwise, and taped the OLED display in it. I think it looks good. With a smaller nozzle, it should be a better print. The filament is new, so hasn't yet been fully calibrated. Lots of issues in the print 😟
With the OLED link above and the files on tinkercad has anyone had any issues with fit? I have one of those OLED modules from a past project that absolutely does not fit the stand off holes. The one listed is a different maker then mine but they look identical.
could you point us to a specific set for the 3 pin Molex KK connectors?
Here is what I think is the correct link for the Auto 3DClippy thingy:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1v9C6Vep6Tc-digital3dclippyuniversal
Is there a new housing we can print that has the openings for the ports on the MK4 for the new pieces (screen, cutter, etc) if not I'll give designing a go when I can
Will there be a new video going from installing the new bootloader etc? I'm familiar with Raspberry Pi but this is my first delve into Arduino territory, so a step by step guide would be preferred over assuming we all know how to do it. I'm not opposed to tinkering, but I'd also like something to fall back on.
Thrilled to see this information! I've ordered another to get it up and running, hopefully quickly, and then will convert my older MK3 to add an additional 4 filaments, or use on another printer.
To confirm, to convert the MK3, do new parts need to be printed, or can it be used as is and just update the firmware (Aside from the parts needed for the MK4 Pro additions)?
Excited for these advancements.
I have a MK3 board missing the additional 2 white connectors. Is there a link to the correct connector?
So there are no longer modes? Looking at the Mk4 GCode generator. Not complaining. Let me clarify. I updated the bootloader, then the firmware. Everything seems to work OK. I gave it a reset, then I wanted to make sure it was in MODE 3, so I held the switch for 10 pulses. Nothing. Took me a second to go the the Gcode generator and it had changed. Makes sense really. Only so much memory on devices like this. Save it for the new stuff.