Running Klipper on an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max that I flashed with OpenNept4une firmware. Here's my g-code in case someone sees something that I happen to be missing.
Tool Change G-Code;
Start G-Code
Using Prusa Slicer.
Y Axis
Button location is 430
Extruder gears to the tip of the nozzle is 1.75 inches or just under 45mm.
printer.cfg posted below;
My 3D Chameleon feeds filament at 38mm/s and takes 7.4-8.6 seconds to back out to the starting position above the Y pipe depending on the tests with the different PTFE lengths going from the Y pipe to the PTFE coupler on the mount.
There are many issues I'm having. I don't know if the printer I purchased just so happened to be the most non user friendly printer on the market but at least I'm learning.
Right now I'm struggling to get the filament through the Y pipe. It keeps getting stuck after the PTFE connector when it has to make a slight bend. I've flared the PTFE tubes, rebuilt the selector/extruder three times to make sure nothing was too tight or too loose. Done many many test runs only to have barely succeeded one time.
Also couldn't find an example of the Auto 3D Clippy g-code anywhere on the forum or YouTube. I've gone as far as to Frankenstein together three other users' models into one that mounts and successfully goes through the mount with ease..
https://www.printables.com/model/952423-3d-chameleon-auto-3d-clippy-mount-for-elegoo-neptu
On the Neptune 4 Max there are gears that get the filament a bit jammed sometimes and requires an extra push to go through which adds to the back out time. Not sure the best way to conquer that.
The extruder on the Chameleon puts massive gouges in the filament creating a crescent moon shape and making the filament extremely difficult to grip.
Back to the Auto 3D Clippy.. when trying the servo motor in which I purchased a buck converter to put the voltage at just below 8V since I purchased a 270 degree 35kg servo and that's what it was rated for. The 3D Chameleon acted so bonkers as soon as the servo was wired up to it. Yes, yes. I've checked the wiring. The power being 2, signal being 4, and ground being 6. To make it less haywire I was looking into and actively attempting to make a spare Arduino Nano I have laying around work as the control for the servo. However, I am not too far along my coding journey and it has been more than a never ending feeling on when I can just get all of this to work. A sketch loaded to the Arduino Nano that would seamlessly work with the g-code in the slicer.
I've had ChatGPT help me write code for it but with the 3D Chameleon going crazy when I plug in the servo motor (power and ground coming from the buck converter at 8v), it is hard to test.
Unfortunately I've gone as far as to look for other alternatives including seeing what this is about;
... and what this is about;
I just so happen to have a few stepper motors and a SKR Mini E3 V3 laying around..
I know I read that Bill is in China which I hope he has an amazing time. With that said, I hope this gets a major overhaul in the future and features added to make this a less stressful experience.
Anyway! Good day all I hope this gets seen because I believe I'm not the only one with frustrations. Photos and possibly a video of where I get stuck on the g-code to come. If there are any resources you need from me that would make assisting me easier please ask away.
Since you have a few spare steppers, you won't need to disassemble your 3DChameleon to use the 3MS. Also, since you already have an SKR Mini E3, you only need two MK8 extruders ($10 each). The SKR Mini E3 V3 vs. V2 should work fine with the existing SKR Mini E3 V2 config. If not, let me know and I can create a new configuration for the V3.