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ETA for V4 Add-Ons?

Wondering if there's a time-line for the various add-ons for the V4. Specifically I'm most interested in the clippy, automatic calibration, and runout sensor but honestly they all sound amazing and I'm looking forward to them. Also can the V4 run ALL the add-ons at once, or will I have to pick and choose (My v4 is sitting at home waiting for me while I'm at work.)

20 comments

20 Comments

Bill

May 05

I posted updates for the firmware as well as a new thread covering the first two of the new mods. The OLED display and the Auto 3DClippy. Bill

Joseph E

May 05

He must have ran into some sort of SNAFU. He said the first things would be up "later this week" now it's Sunday, which is kind of really the next week. So I'm thinking something happened.

tom

May 01

Will there be an upgrade avail for the new board/drivers?

Bill

May 01

Replying to

There is nothing new beyond the firmware and the additional hardware discussed in the previous comment. The base electronics remain the same.

tom

May 05

Replying to

What about the new TMC steppers mentioned in the RMMF video?

Bill

May 05

Replying to

I explained in the other threads, but there are no TMC drivers needed anymore. We decided to go with the AS5600 Magnetic Rotary Encoder instead. A) It's a lot cheaper and B) it allowed for more flexibility and the ability to detect manual motor movements (like when you insert the filament) that the TMC drivers couldn't detect. Moving to them also allowed us to fully support all Mk2 and Mk3 users as well without the need for an entirely new design. The Mk4 firmware brings with it an expansion capability using the I2C bus, so instead of designing our own boards, we're using easy to get (and inexpensive) off the shelf I2C based devices, like the AS5600 to do the heavy lifting.

Bill

Apr 29

I will post the OLED and the Auto 3DClippy files later this week. (I just got home from Denver, so I need a bit to relax and unwind before hand. ;-) ) The Runout sensors and the filament box will follow. Lastly, and the one that has the most work remaining is the motor position sensors. I'm actually refactoring the firmware to better support it now.

All the add-ons will be able to run together without issue on any of the 3DChameleons Mk2 and above. Mk2 and Mk3 users will need to add two connectors to the existing holes on their board, but that's pretty easy to do. Beyond the add-ons, to support additional I/O, you'll need 3 additional components, and I2C bus, a I2C I/O Port expansion and a 5v to 3.3v converter. These are all inexpensive and will be detailed in the plans as well. (The I/O and 3.3v are only needed for the filament runout sensors.) I'll be releasing the OLED and Auto 3DClippy Servo firmware later this week... they can run off your current board without any additional boards. And the Auto 3DClippy uses the same knife blade as included in your kit. Bill

Trent B.

May 09

Replying to

If I'm reading into your comment correctly, backing it out is to move it out of the hot end, past the extruder gears so that the 3D Chameleon can then pull it out to the starting position above the Y. Is that correct?

The purging is about getting the cut end back through the extruder, through the hot end long enough that the previous color is purged and the new color is flowing through the hot end.

Bill

May 09

Replying to

Sorry, I'm not following what you're saying. If you cut the filament, anything below the cut is irrelevant. It's no longer a part of the extruder trying to move anything.

In a direct drive scenario, you back it out a little just so you're not wasting as much filament, but it never backs it out of the drive gears... it's cut above them... and then the 3DChameleon is used to pull it away from it.

In a Bowden system, the filament is backed out to 15mm before the blade, which is then cut and then the extruder will back out the filament all the way out of the extruder, which then the button is pressed and the 3DChameleon pulls it out the remaining distance.

In either case, the tip remains under the blade and will subsequently be pushed back to the nozzle once the filament is reloaded.

Bill

May 09

Replying to

The cut end should never be pulled back through a direct drive extruder. The whole idea is to prevent that so you don't have to fight with swollen tips or stringing... you pull it back just far enough that you're not wasting all the filament that is below the extruder, but leaving the tip inside the throat of the nozzle, so you don't have to deal with the tip shape trying to go through the extruder. You're trading purge for ease of use.

Bill