Setting Up On A CNC Shield v4.

My son, Shane, doesn’t print much but he knows about the chameleon and once in a while will design 3D stuff. He just turned 11 so he’s got a ways to go haha. If budget permitted, it would just be much easier to get a machine that came with multi filament capability, but I do enjoy the project and the challenges that come with it.

Thats what I like about the chameleon. I learned so much about MMU's and how simple they are, and what it takes to make one. Just having a project printer (my old cr-10) taught me a lot too. I have been thinking of desgining a fork of the chameleon, but instead of the current hardware, it uses 4 extruders (so I would have to use a shield v3, with some BMG clone dual drive extruders) that would attach to the ouside of the https://www.sunlu.com/products/sunlu-filadryer-s4?srsltid=AfmBOop7JnjZThUTD7aN3iemzRHJw43xGl6zzmOaI8xLuelo9zAXogAX

The only problem is that I can't just go spen $150 whenever I please, so I would never be able to confirm if it works. Since your son is still learning, I would recommend tinkercad, because it is very simple and easy to use. After all, I use it for most of my projects and bill even used it to design the chameleon itself haha.

Also, if you plan to keep your ender on a Bowden setup, then you can probably use my (still being designed) Stealthburner fork, the Color Burner. It's a modified version that I have been remixing to use mostly stock hardware (stock hotend, uses the stock hotend cooling fan, and mounts to the OG Extruder carriage) and have a cheap filament cutter built in. You only need a bit of external hardware.

Current BOM (may change):

-Voron Stealthburner (just the 5015 fan, heat inserts, bolts, washers, and screws. None of the fancy lighting and sensor stuff is needed)

-No. 17 X-acto blade

-9x24mm Spring (the one you would find in the ender-3 Bowden extruder, so if you upgrade to the M4, just take it from there)

-M3 Heat Inserts

-BL/3D touch (optional, but I have heard it is worthwhile)

-Color Burner modified parts (will release when they're done)

-m2 screw kit (mainly 20mm sizes)

-PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fitting

That's about it, but it is still in development, so It may change. Also, it's being designed for the CR-10 (pretty much just a giant ender 3) so it most likely fits the ender 3, but I will not be able to confirm. Another note, I will not be able to respond from the 20th through the 28th, so just a heads up.

Ok, that makes sense, I will reprint those. And I did home the chameleon. So if I were to buy this servo, https://a.co/d/9c7kQmL, what buck boost should I buy with it, and is that a good enough servo?

Oh, make sure to reprint everything on the same print in PETG with .2 mm layer height and 100% infill. This is the kind of servo Bill recommends: https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Motors-Waterproof-Steering-Control/dp/B0DDKN9RS6/ref=slsr_d_dpds_fsdp4star_fa_xcat_cheapdynam_d_sccl_2_4/135-4448785-9319159?pd_rd_w=K5THO&content-id=amzn1.sym.189ba0e8-243a-408f-947d-77c5ac846d2e&pf_rd_p=189ba0e8-243a-408f-947d-77c5ac846d2e&pf_rd_r=8DKW5ZRK9SP2JSWR0323&pd_rd_wg=s3ftv&pd_rd_r=ba40394c-0911-475e-b176-9241d4adb27e&pd_rd_i=B073F92G2S&th=1\

Choose the 20 or 25 kg (preferably 25) with 180 degrees.

I do not know if the one you linked will work (or not work) so you choose that at your own discretion. As for a buck booster, you will need:

Buck Booster: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N6WWJS Power supply to wire adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Qaoquda-Connector-Terminal-Headphone-Converter/dp/B07JMY5XXT Power supply splitter: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Surveillance-Adapter-Y-Cable-Security/dp/B082Y1PQ6C

You will use this to split a wire of the 12v power supply, then convert the splitter to a wire terminal so you can connect it to the buck booster (which you will need to set to your servos highest voltage) which then can connect to your servo.

You will need to be careful while doing this, as I accidentally fried a cloned Arduino while attempting (due to user error). Side note for the servo: Depending on what your budget is, you could get both and see if they both work the same. My budget is very low, so I pretty much only bought the necessary components.

So I have everything now and my buck booster is set to 6.8 volts(what my servo is rated for). What wires get plugged into the buck booster and what wires go into my board from the servo? also what port does the wires go into my board?

It probably wasn't that, because then both drivers would be fried, not just one. I think it could be a faulty driver or incorrect cable/driver placement.

I think that he may have a bad stepper driver. The kit should have come with 3, so he can replace the (maybe) fried driver with the spare.

It's fine. Any help is appreciated! I would like to help him because I sold my chameleon unit to him, so I should help get his unit to work. After all, who wants to waste $155?

Since this problem isn't directly related to the chameleon, it may be worth posting about this on the Arduino forums. I have never seen this problem before, so I will have to do some more research into this.

If I switch the motor drivers, then the other motor doesn't work right

If you swap them and then the other one doesn't work, then it is definitely a fried driver. The video also looks like the driver is fried. Try swapping it in for the extra driver that would have been used for the Z-Axis. If that doesn't work, then replace it with the ones you ordered off ali (note: for the stepper drivers you don't have to buy keyestudio ones. You can buy the extremely cheap ones). If even those don't work, then we can modify the code to use the Z-Axis driver slot instead of the X. Other than that, it looks like it is working fine!

That is great! It looks like everything is working now. The last thing to do is reassembling the chameleon unit. if you click the switch, something different should appear on the Oled and the motors should move! I am pretty sure that all the hard parts with programming the board are over! Hope this project turns out well for you!

I never got it set up on my printer. I have the Ankermake M5C (garbage compared to more recent printers, is completely closed source, and you can't have custom firmware.) which was a pain to try and set up on because:

a) I cannot send direct gcode commands to it

b) it's closed source so it's quite hard to design parts for it, like a filament cutter.

c) I had some problems with my 3Dclippy, and I don't have the time to troubleshoot

In the end, I sold my unit to @ace6879 who probably will have an easier time than I did since he has an open-source printer that supports direct gcode commands. I am thinking of getting an Elegoo Centauri (not the carbon one) because it looks like a good machine with a good price, and it will have its own AMS clone (which will be revealed around June). Plus, even if their AMS clone doesn't get the best reviews, it has all the nifty features that are required for setting up a chameleon. Side question: Is the CNC Mainboard working?

Well at least the hardware is working :)

Is it working?

Yes, that is it, but you have the same pinout as me, you can simply copy this into Arduino IDE and skip the code modification:

Note: you cannot directly upload this into Arduino IDE, since it isn't a .ino file, and the website will not let me upload a .ino file, so you must copy and paste it.

Try this:

#define EN        8       // stepper motor enable, low level effective

#define X_DIR     5       //X axis, stepper motor direction control 

#define Y_DIR     6       //y axis, stepper motor direction control

#define Z_DIR     7       //zaxis, stepper motor direction control

#define X_STP     2       //x axis, stepper motor control

#define Y_STP     3       //y axis, stepper motor control

#define Z_STP     4       //z axis, stepper motor control

/*

// Function: step   -control the direction and number of steps of the stepper motor

// Parameter: dir  -direction control, dirPin corresponds to DIR pin, stepperPin corresponds to 

step pin, steps is the number of steps.

// no return value

*/

void step(boolean dir, byte dirPin, byte stepperPin, int steps)

{

  digitalWrite(dirPin, dir);

  delay(50);

  for (int i = 0; i < steps; i++) {

    digitalWrite(stepperPin, HIGH);

    delayMicroseconds(800);  

    digitalWrite(stepperPin, LOW);

    delayMicroseconds(800);  

  }

}

void setup(){// set the IO pins for the stepper motors as output 

  pinMode(X_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(X_STP, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(Y_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_STP, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(Z_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_STP, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(EN, OUTPUT);

  digitalWrite(EN, LOW);

}

void loop(){

  step(false, X_DIR, X_STP, 3200); // x axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 3200 steps

  step(false, Y_DIR, Y_STP, 3200); // y axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 3200 steps

  step(false, Z_DIR, Z_STP, 3200); // z axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 3200 steps

  delay(1000);

  step(true, X_DIR, X_STP, 3200); // X axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 3200 steps

  step(true, Y_DIR, Y_STP, 3200); // y axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 3200 steps

  step(true, Z_DIR, Z_STP, 3200); // z axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 3200 steps

  delay(1000);

}

This should work perfectly. The test code I sent you first had a fatal flaw. The stepping amount was set to 200, when it should have been 3200

I found the problem! The testing code is wrong! Try using the testing code from here: https://www.3dchameleon.com/forum/main/comment/92bf7dfd-67ab-45d8-8d23-86de16afa65e?postId=6770a14a797c5c8b5ad99781

and the problem should be solved!

I do not think that the steppers are bad. I think its the code. I think that if the boards do the same thing anyway, we should just go ahead and try with the chameleon firmware. Also I'm just the main person who helps with the CNC shields because:

1) Bill is busy and he has a stock of mainboards for personal use, so he doesn't need a CNC Shield.

2) Other people probably don't check the forums as much as I do.

I do have a modified code I would like you to try and record the results.

Code:

#define EN        8       // stepper motor enable, low level effective

#define X_DIR     5       //X axis, stepper motor direction control 

#define Y_DIR     6       //y axis, stepper motor direction control

#define Z_DIR     7       //zaxis, stepper motor direction control

#define X_STP     2       //x axis, stepper motor control

#define Y_STP     3       //y axis, stepper motor control

#define Z_STP     4       //z axis, stepper motor control

/*

// Function: step   -control the direction and number of steps of the stepper motor

// Parameter: dir  -direction control, dirPin corresponds to DIR pin, stepperPin corresponds to 

step pin, steps is the number of steps.

// no return value

*/

void step(boolean dir, byte dirPin, byte stepperPin, int steps)

{

  digitalWrite(dirPin, dir);

  delay(50);

  for (int i = 0; i < steps; i++) {

    digitalWrite(stepperPin, HIGH);

    delayMicroseconds(800);  

    digitalWrite(stepperPin, LOW);

    delayMicroseconds(800);  

  }

}

void setup(){// set the IO pins for the stepper motors as output 

  pinMode(X_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(X_STP, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(Y_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_STP, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(Z_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_STP, OUTPUT);

  pinMode(EN, OUTPUT);

  digitalWrite(EN, LOW);

}

void loop(){

  step(false, X_DIR, X_STP, 800); // x axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 800 steps

  step(false, Y_DIR, Y_STP, 800); // y axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 800 steps

  step(false, Z_DIR, Z_STP, 800); // z axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 800 steps

  delay(1000);

  step(true, X_DIR, X_STP, 800); // X axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 800 steps

  step(true, Y_DIR, Y_STP, 800); // y axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 800 steps

  step(true, Z_DIR, Z_STP, 800); // z axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 800 steps

  delay(1000);

}

Did you order all the boards at the same time?

If you did, keyestudio may have sent you a faulty batch. You should complain to them and ask for a new board. If that board doesn't work, then we know its the code thats the problem.

Also, since the motors do spin correctly, maybe we should just try uploading the 3D chameleon firmware and see if it just works for some reason.

I am doing some reasearch on what may be causing this. It almost looks like its not going the correct amount of steps. I will have some modified code for you to try in a bit.

Here a a few suggestions:

Go to https://forum.arduino.cc/ and make a post there. This is the arduino formus. There are people who are smarter than me and can probably be more helpful. Make sure to include the video of the problem, the screenshot of the code, and the fixes that you have already tried.

Message keyestudio. Their board is the thing that is having problems, so just ask them about it.

Strange. The motors are rotating in the correct directions but aren't making the full turn. This probably won't give me more than I already know, but could you take a screenshot of your testing code? Also, try plugging these into one of your ender 5's (just unplug a motor and plug it into one of these) and move the axis you plugged it into. This is to see if the motors themselves are faulty. It also may be worth trying to test another set of stepper motors.

While using the test code, the screen will not power on, which means that part is working normally. The test code will only affect the motors. Could you send a video of the motors spinning? I have never had that happen, so I must see what goes wrong before I can help. Also, it may be worth taking the screen out of the lid temporarily so I can see the pin locations.

#define EN 8 // stepper motor enable, low level effective #define X_DIR 5 //X axis, stepper motor direction control #define Y_DIR 6 //y axis, stepper motor direction control #define Z_DIR 7 //zaxis, stepper motor direction control #define X_STP 2 //x axis, stepper motor control #define Y_STP 3 //y axis, stepper motor control #define Z_STP 4 //z axis, stepper motor control /* // Function: step -control the direction and number of steps of the stepper motor // Parameter: dir -direction control, dirPin corresponds to DIR pin, stepperPin corresponds to step pin, steps is the number of steps. // no return value */ void step(boolean dir, byte dirPin, byte stepperPin, int steps) { digitalWrite(dirPin, dir); delay(50); for (int i = 0; i < steps; i++) { digitalWrite(stepperPin, HIGH); delayMicroseconds(800); digitalWrite(stepperPin, LOW); delayMicroseconds(800); } } void setup(){// set the IO pins for the stepper motors as output pinMode(X_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(X_STP, OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_STP, OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_DIR, OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_STP, OUTPUT); pinMode(EN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(EN, LOW); } void loop(){ step(false, X_DIR, X_STP, 200); // x axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 200 steps step(false, Y_DIR, Y_STP, 200); // y axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 200 steps step(false, Z_DIR, Z_STP, 200); // z axis motor rotates CCW for 1 circle, as in 200 steps delay(1000); step(true, X_DIR, X_STP, 200); // X axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 200 steps step(true, Y_DIR, Y_STP, 200); // y axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 200 steps step(true, Z_DIR, Z_STP, 200); // z axis motor rotates CW for 1 circle, as in 200 steps delay(1000); }

This is the code (the other reply). You will copy and paste this into Arduino IDE, and then upload it to the Arduino nano (inserted into the CNC Shield). Then use my previous comment to see which direction each motor should spin.

https://www.3dchameleon.com/forum/main/comment/9823011a-16b3-4296-a865-fab838550bfa?postId=6770a14a797c5c8b5ad99781

Great! After the board has been programmed, you will be done with the mainboard setup, and you will be able to continue with the chameleon setup like normal. Unfortunatley, this is where my help will end, as I am not good with the gcode configuaration and the other bits.

Chris Riley has a very helpful 3 part series that I originally followed to get my hardware setup. Part one can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUYJseo78tI

Funnily enough, I didn't even set in any M3 nuts before screwing in the M3x10 bolts. I made the hole sizes be small enough that the bolts could self-thread, and sit in the plastic (which isn't the best) but works for now. I probably should have done what you did, but I just didn't have any M3 nuts on hand. I will probably add in holes to the back of the model so next time, you won't have to drill.

This setup is looking quite nice! You should probably mouth the end stop switch at the corner by the mainboard box, to avoid cables going everywhere. One last upgrade that is definitely worth doing is the 3Dclippy. It removes the need for tip shaping (which can be an absolute pain). I don't know if there are any mounts made directly for the ender-5 series, but the extruder plates look quite similar to the ender-3, so it probably isn't that hard to adapt (though it may interfere with your current direct drive setup).

A few models that may or may not be helpful https://www.printables.com/model/891355-3d-chameleon-auto-clippy-mount-micro-swiss-ng

https://www.printables.com/model/473548-3dchameleon-ender-5-extruder-mount-with-ptfe

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6Lnp2FgNGZg-digital3dclippyender3v2

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bw2TejY3FwY-digital3dclippyender3neo

As for the 4-Y PTFE adapter (which hasn't even been mentioned yet), I don't recommend printing the 3DChameleon one. Instead, get a smooth Bambu Lab one like this: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806861554523.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.358c5da3ILdK0H&algo_pvid=ec376282-fd63-4b91-b060-b8463a534a89&algo_exp_id=ec376282-fd63-4b91-b060-b8463a534a89-2&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22349%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%216.98%216.98%21%21%2150.34%2150.34%21%402103245417419801483232822e2fb0%2112000039217455870%21sea%21US%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=vh1QkZOct60z&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Are these the correct printer models?

https://www.creality.com/products/ender-3-pro-3d-printer

https://www.creality.com/products/creality-ender-3-s1-plus-3d-printer

You didn't specify which ender model (3, 5, 3 v3, etc.) so just wondering, as some printers have some more developed upgrades, and would be easier to make a mainboard box mount for.

Alright, thats looking better. That was a needed adjustment, as it wouldn't work with the modified code otherwise.

Okay, it is now posted!

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1207140-3d-chameleon-cnc-shield-v4-case#profileId-1221194

Also, quick question: what printer are you setting this up on? some are easier to setup on than others.

Quick question: Is it ok if I use your photos of my CNC Shield box so I can post it on makeworld?

Okay that is looking great! You are almost there! I do see that my CNC Shield box is getting used ;)

This is the time where you will test the motor directions. I can see that the Arduino nano itself is not inserted into the board. Before continuing, proceed to do that. My video of inserting stepper drivers also shows putting in the nano. After that, you will need to plug the small end of the blue cable into the nano boards USB port, the plug the full size USB end into your pc's USB port.

After this, the Arduino program should recognize the nano board, and it will let you upload code to it. Also, before giving power to the main board, make sure that the OLED screen has the correct pinout. I showed how to do this on one of my comments on Daniel's post. After this, make sure that the motors and arduino nano are connected to the CNC Shield. Then, you can plug in your 12v power supply. Now onto the motor testing. First, delete all code already in the code box in Arduino IDE, then copy the code from this post: https://www.3dchameleon.com/forum/main/comment/92bf7dfd-67ab-45d8-8d23-86de16afa65e?postId=6770a14a797c5c8b5ad99781

Using the notes in the code, you should be able to see if each motor turns the correct direction when they are supposed too.

Here is the order and directions that the motors should spin while using the test code:

First, the X-Motor (in our case the extruder motor) should rotate counterclockwise (to the left) for one circle.

Then, the Y-Motor (which for you would be the selector) should rotate counterclockwise for one circle.

After, the Z-Motor would do the same, but we only have 2 motors in the chameleon, so ignore the Z rotations.

Then after that, these rotations will happen:

The X-Motor should rotate clockwise (to the right) for one circle.

Then, the Y-Motor (which for you would be the selector) will rotate clockwise for one circle.

If they turn the wrong direction, flip the cable ends that go into the CNC Shield 180 degrees then try again.

Liam

Have you followed the guide in my other reply? I would first recommend testing for motor directions. You will need to have the stepper drivers and nano installed into the CNC Shield. Then, you will need to connect the mini USB cable into the nano and plug the other end into your pc. The computer should recognize the nano board, and you should be able to send code to the board.

Its fine! I am just here to help. After all, I sold my chameleon unit, but I still love the 3D printing community, and the idea of an open source MMU that works on any printer. I may build another unit for an Elegoo Centauri if the official MMU is too expensive.

Also, how is the setup turning out? Is it working okay?

The X-Axis stepper drivers is for the extruder motor, and the Y-Axis stepper drivers is for the selector.

Each stepper driver in the kit is the same. Just follow the simple board assembly video I put in my reply on the other post.