Unfortunatley this 3D Chameleon installation has been a lot of struggling installing it on my SV06.
First my tool 1 and 2 didnt pull the filament. It was solved by printing the A+ parts.
Secondly I didn't have a good Prusa slicer profile since I prefer Orca. But since Orca is based on Bambu studio which has great support for multi material, it wasn't to hard to adapt the gcode to Orca.
But I still can't get it to load correctly. It pushed the filament into the extruder but it seems to not be able to pass into the extruder gears.
Might be the cut filament that blocks the gears?
Do I need more tension on the 3DC extruder to really force down the old filament?
Maybe I should try without the 3DClippy and just back out the filament?
Here is the start of the Gcode:
;==== ORCA
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=SV06_mesh
M140 S60 ;set bed temp
M190 S60 ;wait for bed temp
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
G0 X110 Y220 F2000 ; go to button hold position
G0 Y225 F2000 ; press button
G4 P3000 ; wait for 7 count (3 seconds)
G0 Y220 ; back off button - unit will home
G4 P2000 ; WAIT for home
M104 S200 ;set extruder temp
M109 S200
G90
G21
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
; Auto generated 3D Chameleon Mk3 Tool Change GCode for PrusaSlicer
; - 3D Chameleon Mk3 Tool T0 -
;begin switch from extruder -1 to extruder #0
M117 Unloading Tool T-1
; unload extruder -1
G92 E0
; go to holding position to unload the stock extruder
G0 X20 Y220 F2000 ; <<----- EDIT THIS LINE TO SET THE INITIAL LOCATION OF THE BUTTON - note the new X for holding for cut
; if this is the first load, then don't unload
; load extruder #0
M117 Loading Tool T0
G0 X110 ; move back to middle
; press the button to select the new extruder
G91 ; go to relative mode for button press
G0 Y5 F2000 ; press the button
G4 P400 ; dwell for .5 seconds - adjust this to match your machines single pulse time
G0 Y-5 ; back off the button
G4 P5000; wait for it to happen ; adjust this time to match the actual tool change time - subtract the time it takes to load for the last 1" into the extruder
G0 E50 F1000 ; << ------- ADJUST THE E50 VALUE TO STOP IT RIGHT AFTER IT LOADS INTO THE STOCK EXTRUDER (50mm is the default)
; ADJUST THE F1500 TO MATCH THE SPEED OF THE FILAMENT FROM THE 3D CHAMELEON
; NOTE: This defaults should work, but you can always tune them to be perfect.
; reload filament all the way into extruder
G0 E10 F300 ; <<<<<----------- EDIT THIS DISTANCE TO FINE TUNE THE FILAMENT LOADING TO STOP BLOBBING OR UNDEREXTRUSION
G90 ; move back to absolute mode
M83 ; but make sure the extruder stays in relative
M117 3D Chameleon T0
;_FORCE_RESUME_FAN_SPEED
T0
; filament start gcode
M106 P3 S180
G1 Z.24 F9000
M106 S0
;LAYER_CHANGE
;Z:0.24
;HEIGHT:0.24
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
;0.24
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;0.24
; printing object Cube id:0 copy 0
EXCLUDE_OBJECT_START NAME=Cube_id_0_copy_0
G1 E-.5 F2400
G1 X119.703 Y127.205 F9000
G1 E.5 F1800
;TYPE:Inner wall
;WIDTH:0.519999
;HEIGHT:0.24
G1 F2400
I'm having the same problem. After a cut, the cut filament gets stuck inside the extruder and the new filament can't push through. It jams up the entire printer and requires me to open the extruder arm and take the broken pieces of filament out. Somehow, the filament on the spool end also struggles to come out. So, the new filament can't feed in. I've redesigned the mounts to allow the blade to move out of the way more and to straighten out the filament path, but those updates didn't seem to help. I'm about to give up on the clippy and try tip shaping.
So... question #1... have you tried to load the filament without anything... just use the manual controls to load the filament and see if it will auto load without anything? That's the first thing to make sure of... When you feed in the filament, do you feel any resistance or is it hitting the lip of the brass insert they have at the top of th extruder? If it's not feeding cleanly, maybe it's not quite aligned up correct?
Bill