I spent over 4 weeks chasing my tail and going down a dozen rabbit holes trying to figure out why I couldn't get the 3D Chameleon working with my K1 Max. I don't want everyone to have to go through that so I'm hoping this post can serve as a source of extra info, specific to the K1 Max (most is applicable to K1). I had the problem where the filament would get chewed up at the Chameleon drive gear and would not unload. I thought my tip shaping was bad so I went that route. I played with the code and tried different temperatures and distances. nothing worked. Then I used almost every tension slider variation and reprinted the A,B, and C parts a few times. Still no luck. So I reached out to Bill via email and we spent a couple days working through the possible issues. In the end it turned out that my cam on the selector motor of the Chameleon was damaged, likely while I was testing I think. Replacing this fixed all my problems and I now I am printing reliably! The notch on the top of it was not going to 0, 90, 180, and 270 degrees before, which was causing the issue. Be sure to rule out any hardware issues if you are having trouble. The drive gear also needs to be perfectly aligned with the filament paths. Ensure this is the case on yours! I heavily modified the tip shaping g-code to be a lot faster. It only cools down to 180 and uses the side aux fan for quicker cooling. Color changes take between 1:30 and 1:45, vs 2:40 with the original tip-shaping. This shaves hours off print times when you add up hundreds of color changes. I also noticed that with Prusa Slicer the pressure advance is turned down to 0 every time it purges at the tower. To get around this I set my pressure advance in the end of the Tool Change g-code. You will see it highlighted below so you can enter your PA value.
My Setup & Print Pics
Please does anyone have the STL to install the switch sensor on the creality k1 Max?