Yes. The 3MS uses one stepper per filament because I found that it is much more reliable and doesn't need nearly as much tuning as other systems.

Since the Voron runs Klipper, you might want to check out the 3MS. It's fully open source, has complete documentation, and is designed specifically for Klipper.

The 3MS requires a filament sensor right before the printer's extruder. This is to increase reliability with tool changes, but it isn't optional.

Selling 3MS kits (or pre-assembled systems) is on my list of goals for the 3MS. Right now, the main priority over kits is TPU support.

If you already have a 3DChameleon, you might want to look at this: https://3dcoded.github.io/3MS/guides/3dchameleon/

Since both of your printers run Klipper, you might want to look at the 3MS instead. It's a modular multimaterial system designed for Klipper 3D printers. A 4 color system would cost around $110 in parts. If you want, you can have anywhere from 2-4 filaments (more if you use multiple controllers). It's fully open source and has complete documentation. Also, I don't make any money if you build one.

Since you have a few spare steppers, you won't need to disassemble your 3DChameleon to use the 3MS. Also, since you already have an SKR Mini E3, you only need two MK8 extruders ($10 each). The SKR Mini E3 V3 vs. V2 should work fine with the existing SKR Mini E3 V2 config. If not, let me know and I can create a new configuration for the V3.

There's an ongoing discussion for setting up the 3MS with a K1/K1C/K1 Max printer here.

I'd be happy to answer your questions: 1. For systems with many filaments, controlling many steppers shouldn't be a problem. Only one stepper is activated at once. If you plan on using many filaments, you can use a controller with more stepper ports (e.g. A BTT Octopus) and submit a Controller Request. In terms of managing multiple steppers, the process is the same for any number of filaments. First, you sync an extruder with SYNC_TOOL TOOL= , then you simply use G1 commands to move the filament. The "SYNC_TOOL" command automatically desyncs all the other tools. 2. The 3MS doesn't directly impact print quality. I haven't noticed any decrease in print quality, aside from occasional color bleed (which can be solved with a larger purge amount). 3. To connect a secondary board to Klipper, you plug it into a USB port of the Klipper host. For most printers, this is an external Raspberry Pi. For the K1/K1C, since Klipper is internal, the secondary board would plug into the USB of the printer itself. As long as you have SSH access to the printer, connecting a secondary board isn't too difficult. The documentation already covers the software side of this process here.

I'm discontinuing this plugin due to the hardware issues I've been experiencing with the 3DChameleon. I have since disassembled it for parts and have used the motors to run the 3MS. The 3MS is a modular, fully open-source multimaterial system for Klipper. It has full documentation, and I don't make any money if you build one. If you want reliable Klipper multimaterial 3D printing, here is the link: https://github.com/3DCoded/3MS

Since the K1C runs Klipper, I would recommend looking at this instead: https://github.com/3DCoded/3MS

Klipper is (in my opinion) the best firmware for 3D printers. Also, I would recommend saving yourself the pain of getting a 3DChameleon to work. If you look in the support section of this forum, you will see tons of repeated issues with the 3DChameleon with many users. If you install Klipper, you don't need to purchase a 3DChameleon, and instead build a 3MS. The 3MS is simple and fully open source. I also don't make any money if you build one. It has full documentation, something the 3DChameleon doesn't have, and it is cheap (four colors would cost around $120 in parts).

If it helps, I'm trying to centralize 3DChameleon tips and tricks in a section in the 3dchameleon-klipper documentation (most of the tips will work just fine without 3dchameleon-klipper). The link for the firmware list is: https://3dcoded.github.io/3dchameleon-klipper/other/firmware/

Thank you for the quick reply. I probably won't try to straighten pins unless they get really bent, just to be safe.

I'm wondering when we can expect the open-source code? I have several ideas for improvements in the code, and it would be nice to know how long to wait before I can start working on them.

I used OrcaSlicer with normal tree supports, 4 interface layers, 0.3mm top Z contact distance, 8mm first layer expansion, and a rectilinear grid pattern. I tried using slim supports, but it didn't like me using interface layers, which I'm pretty sure supports need to come off?

On my printer, the servo wires were way too short to reach from my printhead to the 3DC control board. I'm using these extension wires if anyone else needs longer wires. I'm pretty sure you can chain them as long as you increase the voltage slightly. https://a.co/d/39kKTmJ

I just ordered the metal horns. They should arrive tomorrow. I will test it then. I think I'm still going to use the wiring solution I already have as I already have the parts for that, but the wiring solution you made seems a lot more elegant.

I have a Prusa MK3S+ Bear. There's already a good config for the Ender 3 v2 for Klipper: https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-creality-ender3-v2-2020.cfg. The Klipper documentation and some YouTube videos were enough for me to get started with it. One thing I would be cautious about is that webcams on weaker Raspberry Pi's (zero and 3) can cause Klipper to crash. Also, be careful of dying SD Cards. Besides that, Klipper's been great so far. I would recommend getting a FYSETC Portable Input Shaper or a KUSBA accelerometer to calibrate input shaper for speed.

Another update: The printed servo horns cut a few pieces of filament before slipping. I'll probably get one of the aluminum servo horns off of Amazon.